Black Friday / Cyber Monday Savings!     $25 off $250 | $50 off $500 | $75 off $750 | $100 off $1000      Promo: BESTDEAL
$25 off $250 | $50 off $500 | $75 off $750 | $100 off $1000
Products to Compare (max of 3)
Compare These Parts
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122, 7am-10pm, everyday.
Since 1952
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122
Shop By
Street Race Truck More... The Toolbox

454 Big Block Chevy Radiator Install


Ever since I decided to put a 454 Big Block Chevy in my 1954 Bel Air, I've been dealing with keeping that beast cool utilizing a stock style 3 core down flow aluminum aftermarket radiator. On a nice cool day driving down the road, I was able to maintain a coolant temperature of 200 degrees. However, going from stop light to stop light the temp would slowly creep up and no amount of air flow would bring it back down.

I started with an engine driven fan and added a half round chrome fan shroud as a start. That didn't last very long as it just wasn't able to pull enough air through the radiator core. I then switched to a 16" electric fan mounted to the inside core of the radiator and set up as a puller fan. Most electric fans work more efficiently at pulling air than pushing air from the front of the radiator. You can average up to 20 percent less efficiency pushing air and having the fan mounted in front does block air flow when driving down the road. So, if you have clearance, the engine side is best for installation.

Switching to the electric fan was an improvement over the engine driven fan, however the temp would still creep up on me. Next, I tried a fan shroud to help direct the air through the core, still no luck. Even setting my shop fan in front of the radiator with the electric fan running, the temp still rose while sitting there idling. I changed timing settings, checked AFR ratios, tried it with and without a thermostat, and even drove the vehicle with the hood removed to see if under hood temperatures had an effect.

Everything I tried just seemed to prolong the inevitable temperature rise. So, it came down to capacity. I then made the decision to switch to a Double Pass Cross Flow Aluminum Radiator, Speedway Motors part number 917-340. Just as the product name states, the coolant makes two passes through the core of the radiator before re-entering the engine. This allows a 5 to 20 degree coolant temperature drop over a standard single pass radiator. This radiator is available in 22, 24, 26, 28 and 31 inches wide to fit a multitude of different vehicles, and they all are 19 inches high overall.

Of course I chose the 31” wide in order to get the most coolant capacity. I also paired this radiator with a Cooling Components Style 80 Electric Fan and shroud combo, Speedway Motors part number 910-15682. These fans are rated at 2500 CFM and are among the thinnest on the market, and the Style 80 version fit the core perfect without any trimming of the shroud. With this fan you will need to use a 70 Amp Relay and Plug to handle the initial power up, part number 910-50051, from American Autowire. Now all I had to do is completely rebuild a core support to go from a down flow radiator to a cross flow. Easy right!?

To start, I drained the coolant from existing radiator and removed it along with my external transmission cooler. (1, 2, 3) I also had to re-locate the battery since the new radiator is 31” wide. Just not enough room to keep it in the stock location. (4)

Next, I unbolted the existing U-shaped radiator support. This would be the foundation for building my new support. I used a grinder with a metal cutoff wheel to remove both uprights from the β€œU”. This gave me a flat base to build off of that bolts into the stock location.

I measured and marked the two upper legs that tie the radiator support to the front fenders, which I cut 1 ½” from the middle and welded the L portion that hangs down back on. I bolted them back onto the fender and trimmed the excess sheet metal on the front to open the area up. I dropped a plum bob straight down and measured how wide I needed the bottom support to be. I then welded a ¼” flat piece of straight iron to the base and also welded Speedway Motors Radiator Mounting Bracket, part number 917-34700, to the flat plate to hold the lower radiator tank in place.

Also, don’t forget to add Radiator Rubber Pads, part number 917-34710, for dampening vibrations and eliminating metal to aluminum contact. With the base in place I used 1” square tubing to connect the top legs with the bottom support. I welded the tubing to the base and drilled new holes up top to bolt to the legs I modified earlier. This allowed me to unbolt and remove the new support if need be.

A coat of black paint and I bolted the new support in and test fit the radiator and began mocking up a top strap to secure it all in place. I had some 1/8” thick and 1” wide strap steel that I used to bolt to the top of the legs and bolt to the top lip of the radiator. A little more cutting and welding and I had a top strap that I could bolt in. This also held it firmly in place and allows unbolting the top for removal. I used the shroud of the fan as an isolator between the steel and aluminum. Next up I would have to deal with some radiator hose configuration and mount the transmission cooler. Be sure to check Speedway Motors Tool Box for another article on that.

Products Featured in this Article

Related Articles

Tech Talk: Double Pass Radiator
by Kevin Webel - Posted in Videos
This tech talk reviews the advantages of swapping out a stock style down flow radiator in a '54 Bel Air with a BBC, to a double pass cross flow radiator. Kevin and Joe also discuss some of the modifications that will have to be made.
Installing a Speedway Motors Wiring Kit - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
This Chevelle project gets rewired with a Speedway Motors wiring kit. Follow along as Jeff guides you through this application, starting with a good mounting location for the fuse box. Learn more on continuity, grounding and relays.
How to Install an EFI Fuel Tank - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Street Rod
A step by step on how to install an EFI Fuel Tank kit in a 1967 Chevelle. Learn the benefits of using this kit including expanded fuel capacity and a 24 gallon tank.
Windshield Removal Tool
by Steve Lewis - Posted in Tech
Learn how to use a windshield remover tool to assist with in-depth builds. A step-by-step guide to windshield removal.
Removing Paint on Car Body Panels - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
Follow along as Jeff demonstrates how to strip paint from the body panels of his 1967 Chevelle using a restorer porter cable tool. Learn how to save time by having the panels acid dipped to remove layers of paint.
How to use a Stud Extractor
by Steve Lewis - Posted in Tech
Learn how simple it is to remove broken or stubborn studs with Titan Tools extractor tool.
Redline Radial Tire Application- 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
Jeff chooses Redline Radial Tires and black powder-coated steel wheels for his 1967 Chevelle. See how he installs the tires with some helpful tips along the way.
Installing a Gear Reduction Mini Starter - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
To keep this project moving forward, Jeff installs a gear reduction mini starter on his big block. See how to apply the mini starter on 153 or 168 tooth flexplates.
Lokar Muscle Car Shifter Installation - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
Jeff tackles the installation of the Lokar Muscle Car Shifter inside of a factory stick-shift floor pan section. This product won a "Best Interior Product" Award at the SEMA show in 2016.
How to Reduce Under Hood Temp - Exhaust Wrap
by Kevin Webel - Posted in Tech
Follow these tips and tricks on how to properly wrap your exhaust manifolds to reduce underhood temperatures.