Help is just a click away!
Click here to chat with a Speedway Team Member
💬
Online - Chat with us!
Chat
Products to Compare (max of 3)
X
Compare These Parts
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122, 7am-10pm, everyday.
Customer Service
Since 1952
in
in
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122
Shop By
Support
Account
Street Race Truck More... The Toolbox

1969-77 GM Brake Calipers

11/1/2017
Tags: Tech, Brakes

In building my 1976 Chevrolet Laguna S-3, I was at the point of needing new Brake Calipers, so I chose Speedway Motors 1973-1977 GM Brake Calipers 910-31035-L for the driver's side, and 910-31035-R for the passenger side.

While there are higher performance calipers available for racing and high performance street applications, you can't beat these calipers for an excellent replacement for those tired, and worn out factory calipers. They come with the banjo bolt sealing washers, and the correct anti-rattle clip for the brake pads. There is something you need to do before installing them, the factory style calipers have a steel bushing that is installed where the caliper slide bolt goes.

The steel bushings can be easily removed by just pushing it out with a small screwdriver.

This steel bushing must be removed if you're using an aftermarket caliper slide bolt like the ones from Speedway Motors Part# 835-2300542, these have the steel bushing made on to the bolt instead of separate like the factory ones making it necessary to remove the steel sleeve that comes in the caliper.

The supplied anti-rattle clips are very easy to install, on to the brake pads Speedway Part# 919-1563. These are sold as a pair, so you will need 2 pairs to do both sides. The clip has a V-shaped portion that sticks up above the rest of the clip and that goes into the caliper piston, and that keeps the pad tight against the caliper piston.

The clip has a crown in it, and pushing down on the crown helps the two retaining tabs snap over the edge of the pad base. Using a small curved pick will also help snap those tabs on, by just hooking the tab and prying them over the edge.

Then place the inner pad into the caliper and snap the anti-rattle clip into the caliper piston. The inner pad is the one that has the hooks on the ends, as well as the wear indicator that will rub against the rotor when the pads wear to the point of needing replaced, and the outer pad is the one that has the holes in the ends.

The calipers are side specific, and are marked with a L for the Left (driver's side) and R for the Right (passenger's side), so make sure that when they're installed the bleeder screws are pointing up, otherwise they'll be pointing downward and you'll never get them bled properly

The caliper slide bolts are installed from the inside out, and as you begin tightening them down, move the caliper slightly to get the caliper slide bolts lined up and started into the caliper before tightening them both down. The caliper slide bolt has a 3/8” Allen Head on it, I always use an hex bit socket that has a 3/8” drive on the other end, it makes it easy to tighten them down.

The final step is to attach the brake hoses to the caliper, if your car hasn't had the brake hoses replaced now it a good time to do that. Over time, the stock factory hoses will deteriorate and that can lead to brake performance issues, or even worse yet a hose that can rupture, which can lead to severe damage to you, your car, and maybe someone else

Then all that's left is to slide on over to the other side and repeat the steps, and in a short time you'll have a fresh new set of brake calipers on your 1973-1977 GM car.

Products Featured in this Article

Related Articles

Brake Pads and Friction Surface
by Speedway Tech Team - Posted in Tech
7/18/2016
We offer a guide to follow when selecting a new set of brake pads for your race car. It's important to know the friction quality and pad size before selecting a new set of racing pads.
Bedding-In Brake Pad Procedure
by Jason Lubken - Posted in Tech
7/18/2016
If you're changing your brake pads before you hit your first race, it's important to burnish or bed-in your new pads. Check out our quick tech-tip on bedding brakes and how to minimize pad wear and get the best performance out of your brakes.
Braking Components - Selection and Design
by Jason Lubken - Posted in Tech
7/13/2016
Looking for a performance or custom brake set-up? Whether you're replacing components or building your brakes from scratch, you may wonder what size master cylinder or booster to use. No need to worry, just follow our handy guide.
Speedway Tech Talk - Disc Brake Set Up
by Tim Matthews - Posted in Videos
5/24/2016
We get a lot of questions about brake kits so Tim gives a brief overview of disc brake setups.
Brake Valves
by Speedway Tech Team - Posted in Tech
10/13/2016
Building a brake system is not difficult if you understand what each component does. Click here for everything you need to know about brake hydraulic valves.
Manual Brake Bleeding
by Jason Lubken - Posted in Tech
7/13/2016
Manual brake bleeding can be one of the most efficient ways to bleed the air out of your brake lines. Speedway Motors has created a guide to show you step-by-step how to manually bleed your brakes.
Bench Bleeding
by Jason Lubken - Posted in Tech
7/13/2016
Anytime you purchase a new master cylinder, it's important to remove all the air before installing it. Here is a very helpful video tutorial that will show you how to bench bleed a new master cylinder.
Braking Performance and Diagnosis
by Jason Lubken - Posted in Tech
7/12/2016
So you've bleed your brakes, but you're still having trouble with that squishy pedal. If you're certain you have the air out of your brake lines; follow our guide to help check your master cylinder, booster, pedal ratios, and line pressures.
Brake System Builder
9/19/2016
Brake System Builder
Speedway Tech Talk - CPP Hydroboost Brake Systems
by Pat Orth - Posted in Tech
5/17/2017
Speedway Motors employee Pat O. talks about the CPP Hydroboost Brake System.
Suggestions
Error
X
Note
X
Ok