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How to Install an EFI Fuel Tank - 1967 Chevelle

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Ever since the beginning of this project I’ve had designs on taking advantage of the new EFI technology available through companies like FiTech or Holley with the Sniper system. These systems require a 58 psi fuel system and when done from scratch, a return line to the tank. When I discovered during the disassembly process that my original gas tank was compromised on the top-side. (Years of being surrounded by rust and moisture had convinced it to join in on the fun.) The perfect excuse to replace it with an upgrade!

Please and Tanks

Being in the market for a gas tank is a pretty common occurrence for a guy like me who likes to buy stuff out of barns and garages that have been forgotten about. You can bank on the carb & gas tank being full of garbage and old fuel, the fluid bearing parts of the brakes will all need replaced and any seals that can leak, will.

Something that drew me to the Tanks, Inc. EFI Fuel Tank Kit was the completeness of the package. Not to mention an expanded fuel capacity. This tank holds 24 full gallons. That will come in handy feeding a 500 cube big block with a heavy foot. Sign me up. As I unpackaged the parts I was impressed with the thought put into the kits. From the drop-in fuel pump module to the inclusion of a Walbro 255 pump and pickup, all the way to a factory OHM sending unit. They had thought of everything.

A little planning and forethought to how and where the feed and return line will route goes a long way. Once you hang the tank under the car, it’s pretty difficult to change. I opted to use Earl’s Vapor Guard fittings and hose for all the fuel plumbing. It’s lined to prevent off gassing and is braided to withstand up to 225 psi operating pressure. Overkill for a system that will only see 58, but it’s very affordable and they fittings are some of the nicest I’ve worked with.

I’m going to cover things that aren’t necessarily part of a normal gas tank install. They give you instructions for that.

1.) Insulate the floor above the pump. You’ll appreciate this step later. No matter the type of pump, it will make some noise. Even with the Lizard Skin applied to the trunk floor, I went the extra step to apply a peel & stick sound deadener sheet directly above the pump on the bottom side of the trunk floor.

2.) Use rubber cement to secure the rubber isolator strips to the top of the tank. These strips sandwich between the tank and the tank supports in the car. They eliminate any metal to metal vibration and wear. They’re also notoriously difficult to keep in place while you wrangle the tank into place. I use a thin coat on both the area of the tank and the strip itself. Once the glue is dry to the touch, press them in place.

3.) Work smarter, not harder. I’ve fought gas tanks in and out of cars just about every way you can. Alone, and with help. Any way you slice it, it’s an awkward task. Until I figured out a much better use for those crappy garage stools. You know the ones. Hydraulic height adjustment, casters that fold under when they hit a crack in the concrete and spill your person onto the grimy floor. Well, don’t throw it away yet. They work great for supporting the tank while you get the straps in place.

Look Ma, no hands!

I put the tank on mine with the seat adjusted all the way down and rolled the whole works into place. Once it was in position, I raised it right into place. There was enough tension to hold the tank tight against the floor while I took my time fitting the straps. Definitely the highest and best use of that little death trap, rolling stool.

I have no regret in admitting that this stool has since been thrown out. Anything with wheels that bucks me off three times, is no longer welcome in my garage.

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