Help is just a click away!
Click here to chat with a Speedway Team Member
Online - Chat with us!
Limited Time Offer     $20 off $299 | $40 off $599 | $60 off $899 | $80 off $1199      Promo: SAVENOW
$20 off $299 | $40 off $599 | $60 off $899 | $80 off $1199
Limited Time Offer   |   Promo: SAVENOW
Products to Compare (max of 3)
Compare These Parts
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122, 7am-10pm, everyday.
Since 1952
Talk to the Experts. Call 800.979.0122
Shop By
Street Race Truck More... The Toolbox

How To Install a Front End Rebuild Kit


While I had the front end of my ‘66 C10 apart to change the old springs and shocks out for new lowering springs, I decided to also rebuild the front end with the Front End Rebuild Kit from Speedway Motors. This kit is a great buy at $219.99 and comes with:

  • 2-upper ball joints (bolt in)
  • 2-lower ball joints (press in)
  • 2-inner tie rods
  • 2-outer tie rod ends
  • 2-tie rod adjusting sleeves
  • 1-idler arm

After jacking the front end up, removing the wheels and placing the truck on jack stands, I removed the front springs. To see how the front springs are removed, you can check out my front suspension article in the Toolbox. After that’s done, the upper and lower control arms are easy to remove with two bolts each. Be sure to remember how many alignment shims go behind each one. I then used a ball joint removal tool to press out the lower ball joints.

After I removed the old ball joints, I degreased, power washed and painted. Once the paint dried, I pressed in the new ball joints.

The upper arms were not as easy to remove as the lowers, because the truck still had riveted in ball joints. I did not have an air hammer or a small cut off wheel at the time, so I went to work with my regular grinder. After grinding off all of the rivet heads and unsuccessfully trying to drill them out, I finally gave in and took them to a local shop for removal.

After getting the upper arms back, I cleaned and painted them. The new ball joints drop right in place and are easy to bolt. To avoid tearing the boots, put the bolts through so the nuts end up on top.

The removal and installation of the inner and outer tie rod ends are pretty simple and can be accomplished quickly. After backing off the castle nuts, while leaving them partially on, the ends can be popped out with a pickle fork. When the ends “pop”, the castle nut can be removed as well as the whole unit. Then, place the inner and outer tie rod in the tie rod adjusting sleeve and adjust to the same length as the removed one. Doing this gets you close, so the truck can be driven to the alignment shop.

Once the new rods are put together they can be re-installed with the idler arms. Now everything can be torqued to spec. The truck's steering and suspension feel so much better, and the truck no longer rides like a covered wagon. The project was easily finished in a few hours. I'm glad I spent the money to improve the ride and safety.

Products Featured in this Article

Related Articles

C10 Rear Drop Springs Installation
by Eric McMillan - Posted in Tech
Read how to install rear drop spring to lower a 1969 C10 pickup. Follow these steps for a smooth installation.
How to Install an LS1 Fuel Filter/Pressure Regulator
Learn how to install our new Deluxe LS Swap Fuel Filter/Regulator in five minutes for a cleaner look and fewer potential leak points!
Steering Installation - 1967 Chevelle
by Jeff Karls - Posted in Tech
This article highlights the finishing touches of the front suspension in Jeff's Chevelle. Learn some tips on how to install the steering arms, center link and tie rod assembly.
Disc Brakes with Factory Wheels on a Ford F1
by John Wulbern - Posted in Tech
In this Tech Tip, a customer asked about finding a set of disc brakes for his 1949 Ford F1 pickup, with one caveat. He wants to use the factory wheels.
Disc Brakes and Proportioning Valves
by John Wulbern - Posted in Tech
In this Tech Tip, John confirms a customer question regarding the need for a proportioning valve on his ’55 F100 brake build.
Additional Drop on a Chevy Truck
by John Wulbern - Posted in Tech
In this Tech Tip, John answers a customer concerns about adding additional drop to his 1960-1972 Chevy truck.
Suicide Doors on '41 GMC
by John Wulbern - Posted in Tech
In this Tech Tip, John talks about what can be expected when converting to suicide doors.
How To Replace Door Hinge Pins and Bushings
by Steve Lewis - Posted in Tech
Learn how to replace the hinges on your vehicle. Follow along as our expert replaces the hinge pins and bushings on his 1976 Chevrolet Laguna S3 with a kit.
Common Causes for Leaky Banjo Fittings and Caliper Issues
by Tim Matthews - Posted in Tech
Tim M. takes us through troubleshooting some of the common causes of leaky banjo fittings and caliper fitment issues.
SEMA 2019: Our Favorite Trucks
by Joe McCollough - Posted in News
Classic trucks are hot right now - so there's no surprise that there are plenty to be seen at #SEMA2019.