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Micro Sprint Chain Maintenance

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Micro Sprints are different in a lot of ways, especially with how the power is transferred from the motor to the rear axle. Large sprint cars have a torque tube with a driveshaft, like your everyday cars and trucks. However, since micro dprints utilize a 600cc motorcycle engine, we have to supply the power from the motor to the rear axle a different way.

So, just like your everyday motorcycles, we utilize a chain for our drive train. There are different types of chains on the market and people typically choose them based on personal preference. I recommend using the non-O-ring 520 Gold Chain 130 Links or 520 Gold Chain 120 Links. There are a couple of different types of master links that you can use with these chains, like the full master link that utilizes the clip or the rivet style link. I prefer to use the last option because I have better luck with them. Just from personal experience, I have had the full master link fail on me a few times, which is why I switched the rivet style. It seems to secure better than the other style.

Everyone has their different ways of performing weekly chain maintenance, and there are no right or wrong ways to go about your chain maintenance. Some people only touch the chain to oil it or to change a gear. When I first started in micros, I was told to spray the chain with chain lube before the feature, and you are good to go. But as I gained experience with micros, I learned different tips and tricks to properly take care of the chain . Since it is the lifeline from the motor to the rear axle, it is important to stay up on the maintenance regularly. The more you treat your chain, the longer it will last and the less resistance it will have when providing power. It's also important to make sure no water gets on the chain, this can lead to rust. That is the worst thing that could happen to your chain as it will cause weakness and could result in the chain snapping during a race.

After a race, while stripping down the car to prep for washing, the first thing to do is take the chain completely off, making sure there are zero chances of it getting wet. Next, spray some WD-40 all over the chain, pretty much just soaking the chain as best as possible. At this stage, some people may use a parts washer to clean their chain thoroughly. If you do not have a parts washer, you can simply run the chain through gasoline. I recommend taking an old oil container, cut the top off, fill it with gasoline, and then run the chain through it for a few minutes. All of the dirt and old oil come out of the chain. The gasoline doesn’t get everything off, so you will need to use shop towels and wipe as much of the excess dirt and oil off the chain.

Since gasoline likes to dry everything out, I hang the chain on a hook and spray it off with an air compressor, ensuring that all of the gasoline gets out of the little places in the chain. Just because I pay attention to the details, I soak the chain down again in WD-40, wipe that oil off with a shop towel and then spray it again with the air compressor. Now comes my favorite part. I have a little tub filled with chainsaw bar lube in the corner of my shop that I put the chain in and let it soak until race day. That way, I can ensure the chain is well lubricated on race day.

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