Menu

Shop

Garage

Cart

Account

Products to Compare (max of 3)
X
Compare These Parts

Daily Driver Maintenance with K&N Cold Air Intake

3/31/2017
Add Article To List
Tags: Tech

I put a lot of miles on my street rod. To date, it’s got about 180,000 on the clock since its Street Rod life started in the early 80’s. I also put a lot of miles on my daily commuter car. Currently, that car is a 2015 Mazda 6. I bought the cheapest model I could, so I could customize it and not feel bad about discarding or upgrading factory attempts at “cool”, with my own spin on what I think makes an appealing car. Well...that, and I’m cheap.

Just shy of a quarter-million miles combined

Improvements in week-one included peeling all the badges that left no holes, a massive drop on coil-overs and a set of OE appearing 19”x9” wheels. Add to that, a short-throw shift kit on the 6 speed and window tint so dark that law enforcement cannot see me thumbing my nose at them.

This is my filter. There are many like it but this one is mine.

That left one thing left to add to my list of appearance and performance improvements for the new driver, a cold air intake. I selected K&N because their name is synonymous with performance air filtration in the industry. Plus, I could buy it at work. At the time we weren’t yet offering the wide variety of K&N products that we now do. I special ordered the kit and with the next stocking order we received, I had more parts to install on the new toy. Installation went smoothly and the instructions supplied were more than adequate. Typical of the K&N experience from what I’ve found.

Flash forward to 60,000 miles. I’m not certain what the suggested interval is for the cleaning of the element in this type of system is, I think it’s actually 100k. 60k seemed like a good time to do it being such a round number and with my factory warranty expiring and all. Once I got the element off and noted how dirty the underside was, I was certain this was a good call.

I followed the directions on the cleaner and sprayed the cotton filter media inside and out and allowed it to do its work on the gathered gunk for about 10 minutes. After that I rinsed away all the debris and gathered dirt and oil with tap water from the inside out.

Soaking takes time but is totally worth the wait

I went a little off-script when it came to the drying step. I make the disclaimer here that K&N advises you let the filter dry naturally. I’m the type of guy who’s never actually waited for the paint to cure before attempting assembly on a project. If you look closely, my finger prints are always enshrined somewhere.

Besides, this thing needed to be ready to report for duty in the morning to make the 120 mile round trip to the office. I found a sport bottle (that I’ve obviously had since the Vulcan Drifter Paint Spill of ’12) that was the perfect size and improvised a pneumatic drying nozzle. I think the main concern with using compressed air to dry or clean a filter is the risk of damage to the media and the weakening of the pleats or fiber. This indirect blowing method seemed to avoid those pitfalls while totally drying the filter in about five minutes.

Your results may vary

After the drying step, I was back on track to follow the directions given. They recommend oiling each pleat and allowing it to sit for 20 minutes to soak in. Then reapply where there are any light spots in the red tinted oil film. Pro-tip, do this over cardboard or the trash can to avoid an oily floor.

Here are my feet, I haven’t seen them personally, in years
Set for another 60k miles

Products Featured in this Article

Related Articles

What Is an HEI Distributor? Setup, Tuning Tips, and Pros & Cons
by Brian Caruth - Posted in Tech
5/15/2025
Learn how HEI distributors work, how to wire and install them, and why they’re a top upgrade over points ignition systems. Includes tips on testing, vacuum advance, and DUI distributor benefits.
Best Type of Mufflers to Create the Perfect Exhaust Note
by Mark Houlahan - Posted in Tech
5/14/2025
From glasspack, turbo, and chambered mufflers, to resonators, and more, which muffler is best for you? See our guide to learn more.
Axle Ratio Calculator | Calculate Ideal Tire Size & Rear Gear Ratio
by Mark Houlahan - Posted in Tech
5/13/2025
Easily calculate the best axle ratio or tire size for your build. Use our axle ratio calculator to match RPM, gear ratio, and tire diameter for optimal performance.
Fuel Filter Micron Ratings | Everything You Need to Know
by Mark Houlahan - Posted in Tech
5/7/2025
Why are fuel filters offered in different micron ratings, and which one is right for your build? Learn why EFI and carbs take different filters.
Pontiac 350 vs Chevy 350 | Pontiac 350 Engine Specs & HP
by Jeff Huneycutt - Posted in Tech
5/1/2025
Why was the Pontiac 350 phased out for the Chevy 350? Discover the key differences, performance, and advantages between these iconic GM small-block V8 engines.
Aluminum VS Cast Iron Heads | Are Aluminum Heads Worthwhile
by Jeff Huneycutt - Posted in Tech
5/1/2025
Aluminum vs. cast iron heads—what’s better for your build? We break down power, weight, heat, and cost to help you choose the right cylinder heads.
How to Diagnose Lifter Tick vs Rod Knock | Troubleshooting Tips
by Jeff Huneycutt - Posted in Tech
4/24/2025
Lifter tick vs rod knock—what's the difference? Learn how to identify these engine noises, their causes, potential damage, and how to fix them.
Camaro Curb Weight Reference Guide | Camaro Weight by Year
by Mark Houlahan - Posted in Tech
4/18/2025
Knowing how much your generation of Camaro weighs will help you determine shock settings, spring choices, and suspension setup.
SBC vs LS Showdown | Dimensions for Swaps, Weight, HP, Specs
by Mark Houlahan - Posted in Tech
4/8/2025
Small block Chevy V8 or the modern LS V8? Which one comes out on top as the best engine to swap into your ride?
How to Repair Holes in Radiators (Plus Two Ways to Prevent Them)
by Joe McCollough - Posted in Tech
3/31/2025
You won't make it far down the road or around the track with a damaged radiator. Here's how to handle a leaky radiator, and more importantly, how to prevent holes and other radiator damage in the first place.