47-54 Chevy Pickup Front Suspension/Brake Kit W/ Wilwood Calipers

• Complete bolt-in solution for 1947-1954 Chevy truck 1/2-ton models
• No welding required, main crossmember, boxing plates, and spring towers bolt to frame
• Complete IFS suspension kit engineered for modern handling, steering, and braking
• Includes tubular upper and lower control arms with QA1 single adjustable coilover shocks
• Your choice of coilover spring rate, from 375-700 lb/in, for the perfect ride
• Lowers ride height 2-4 inches from stock without compromising ride quality
• Features GM Metric 11-inch disc brakes that can be easily serviced through any parts store
• Power rack-and-pinion steering assemblies
• 7/8-inch bolt-in front sway bar ensures proper handling in the corners as well
• Includes rubber brake hoses (uses standard 3/16-inch brake line) and mounting fasteners
• Works extremely well when paired with our 1947-1954 bolt-in rear suspension system
• Bolt-in motor mounts for small block Chevy and LS V8 engines available for crossmember

Modernize your 1947-1954 Chevy Truck 3100 Model with a True Bolt-In Independent Front Suspension

In the late 1940s pickup trucks were still very much being used as pickup trucks. From hauling around the farm to making deliveries, the pickup truck of the 1940s and 1950s was very utilitarian. They were built to handle heavy loads and rough roads and it was accepted that it "rode like a truck" because, well, it was a truck! These 1947-1954 Chevy truck 1/2 ton pickup models rode on a leaf spring suspended solid front axle, providing payload capacity combined with ease of manufacturing while keeping costs low. It would be decades before GM introduced an independent front suspension (IFS) for its line of pickup trucks. Today you can easily convert your 1947-1954 Advance Design 3100 pickup to IFS and enjoy the benefits that an IFS suspension kit brings to the table along with disc brakes, rack-and-pinion steering, and much more.

When considering whether to rebuild your 70-plus-year-old bolt on front suspension versus upgrading to an IFS setup, many will place cost and the need to weld the IFS crossmember or front frame stub at the top of their list as to why it is too difficult to tackle the conversion. However, once you really dig into that straight axle setup, replacing the leaf springs, shackles, and bushings, along with new kingpins (which will require a trip to the machine shop for proper reaming and installation) to remove all the slop in the system, you're still left with a straight axle front end that will not handle nearly as well as an IFS, which as its name implies, allows the left and right front suspension to act independently from each other over road irregularities. Unlike the solid axle setup, where movement of one side affects the opposite side and causes severe bump steer issues. Add in new shocks, rebuilding or replacing your steering box, and the costs get closer to being less of a deterrent. But what about all that welding mess? Well, we've made that a moot point as well since our 1947-1954 Chevy truck IFS crossmember is a true, complete bolt in. Basic hand tools and a drill will get your Chevy IFS suspension kit swap handled in no time flat.

A Mustang II IFS Crossmember That Requires Zero Welding for Installation

Historically, if you wanted to utilize a Mustang II type crossmember in your hot rod or muscle car, it required extensive trimming of your factory frame rails and welding of the crossmember, spring towers, and other bits to your modified frame. Sans the proper welding equipment and the skill to weld, many enthusiasts would have to have the installation performed elsewhere at additional cost. We wanted to make the addition of an IFS to the 1947-1954 GM 1/2-ton trucks something the average wrench turner could install themselves in a weekend with nothing more than a drill and some hand tools. Our 1947-1954 Chevy truck Mustang II IFS crossmember, spring towers, and frame boxing plates are designed to not only bolt in, but interlock each other as well, creating a super strong chassis design. This kit was featured on our 1952 Chevy pickup build for Classic Truck's Week to Wicked. Watchanoverview of this suspension kit in The Toolbox!

Our Mustang 2 frontend kit features strong tubular upper and lower control arms made from 1-inch steel tube with .120-inch wall thickness that provide a modern fit and look with additional clearance for larger wheel and tire packages along with an enhanced turning radius over standard stamped arms and strut rods. The included forged Mustang II spindles are stock height, which places the spindle pin at 1/2 inch below the frame rail for a 2- to 4-inch drop over the stock solid axle bolt on suspension. An optional two inch drop spindle will set the spindle pin at 1-1/2-inch above the frame rail if you are looking for that ultra-low stance. The QA1 18-way single adjustable aluminum shocks adjust compression and rebound simultaneously and are married to your choice of chrome coilover spring rate (from 375 to 700 lb/in rate) to provide a smooth ride and adjustable ride height. The built in coil spring seat adjusters allow additional ride height adjustment directly on the crossmember as well.

Add Disc Brakes and Rack-And-Pinion Steering to Tackle Today's Busy Roads

Upgrading your 1947-1954 GM 3100 pickup with our 100 percent bolt in Mustang 2 frontend kit provides the proper mounting points for our Wilwood double piston calipers and 11-inch vented disc brake rotors with 5x5.75 bolt pattern. We also include brake hoses, and all bearings and hardware. This is an excellent brake package that will handle today's driving needs and highway speeds. Pair it with our direct fit 1947-1954 Chevy truck power brake booster, pedal, and master cylinder kit for an easy power disc brake solution.

The Mustang 2 frontend IFS suspension kit utilizes precise power rack-and-pinion steering. Combine this modern steering solution with a direct fit tilt steering column and you'll have the most modern steering system available for your classic Chevy pickup. We offer an optional bump steer kit to correct any potential bump steer issues when lowered aggressively. A 7/8-inch solid front sway bar provides crisp handling assist to your steering system too when the road gets curvy. Hub-to-hub width is 56-1/2-inches.

Everything Included for a Successful Weekend of Wrenching

Our 1947-1954 Chevy truck Mustang II IFS kit is one of the most complete and easiest to install IFS suspension kit conversions for these trucks on the market. You will find everything you need to install a complete hub-to-hub bolt on front suspension system in your classic pickup truck. The crossmember, control arms, spindles, calipers, rotors, caliper brackets, and outer tie rods are plain/bare finish and can be painted or powder coated at the installer's discretion. Engine mount options include small block Chevy and GM's popular LS family of engines. Finish off your Chevy IFS installation with our 1947-1954 Chevy truck bolt-in transmission crossmember and pair your Chevy IFS install with our matching four-link rear bolt on suspension kit (also used on the Week to Wicked 1952 pickup build) for the ultimate in handling.

Kit Includes:

• (1) Bolt-In 1947-1954 Chevy truck Mustang II crossmember
• (1) Set of standard tubular upper and lower control arms
• (1) Set of coilover shocks with your choice of springs
• (1) Pair of stock height forged Mustang II spindles
• (1) Mustang II coil spring ride height adjuster kit
• (1)Mustang II power rack-and-pinion
• (1) Wilwood caliper 11-inch disc brake kit
• (1)Heidts Mustang II 7/8-inch diameter sway bar kit
• Wheel bearings, seals, brake hoses, mounting fasterners

Spindles

1. The Mustang II spindle has been used in street rod applications for years. As such, many brake kits have been developed for them. One can get kits with rotors of 9-1/2", 10", 10-1/2" or 11".
2. Bolt patterns are available in 5 x 4-1/2", 5 x 4-3/4", and 5 x 5".
3. The biggest brake kit we offer for this spindle is #91031943, with 1969-1972 Chevelle 11" rotors, full size calipers and standard Chevy 5 x 4-3/4" bolt pattern.

Control Arms

Why go with tubular control arms? The most obvious reason is the looks. Tubular control arms and strut rods give your hot rod a much cleaner and hi-tech appearance than the stock type do. Another bonus is that the tubular control arms are available in 5/8" narrower than stock, which helps tuck the wheels up under the fenders without having to buy expensive special offset wheel. When using 5/8" narrower control arms, 1" must be removed from each inner tie rod end.

Crossmember

This bolt in unit is ONLY made to fit a 47-54 Chevy 1/2 ton and 3/4 Pickup chassis. Inside dimension at axle centerline is 23-1/2", outside is 28". This frame is slightly tapered to the front. Standard MII spindles will set pin at 1/2" below frame rail and 2" drop will set it at 1-1/2" above. Track width is standard 56-1/2" depending on which brake kit is used.

Steering Rack

1. The Power Steering unit has 5/8" and 9/16" O-ring style ports. If you have an inverted flare fitting on your existing lines, that will not work.
2. The Power Steering unit can be used with our standard GM pumps 91032922-GM, 91032908-BLK and -CHR, and with hose kits 910-32535 and 617-4835.
3. Applicable Bump Steer Kit # 721-BAX102 now available when application may require.

Proper Break-In Procedure for Steel or Cast Iron Rotors

New steel/iron rotors should be bedded in before being used in racing conditions. Proper bedding will prepare the rotor surface, prolong the rotor's life, and make it more resistant to thermal checking or cracking under severe braking conditions. The following procedures should be performed when bedding in both steel and cast iron rotors. It is best to bed in a new rotor using a used set of pads, preferably ones which will not create heat rapidly. Generating heat too rapidly will thermal shock the rotors. Likewise, when bedding in a new set of brake pads it is best to perform the process on a used rotor. This new/used bedding process permits controlled bedding of each individual component.

Make sure rotor surfaces are free from oils, grease, and brake fluid. Run vehicle up to a moderate speed and make several medium deceleration stops to heat up the rotor slowly. This will help reduce the chance of thermal shock caused by uneven heating of the rotor. Pull into the pits and allow the rotor to cool to ambient air temperature. Care should be taken not to ride the brakes into the pits as this may hot spot the rotor causing premature wear to the surface or structural damage.