216, 235, 261 Chevy 6 Cylinder Headers, Raw Finish

Yes

The manifolds were a bit tricky to mount by myself, however, you'll need to exchange the two end studs for bolts. I believe you can clamp them down with the stock boss on the two longer bolts are replaced with shorter bolts. My bosses however wouldn't fit flat because they were a bit mangled, so I modified them to have plates welded sticking off 1-7/8 inch like the stock manifold. As for the linkage for the gas pedal, I had to do two, 1/8 inch bends, to get them to not rub agains the rear (closest to the firewall) header. Also Mine was clearly a return. The bolts that came with it had scuff marks and there were no gaskets included. They were $20 at orielly and I didn't want to wait for customer service to figure it out and send something else. They sounds good, not tin can like that cast iron ones can sound.

split manifold

I used these to work with my dual exhaust

Excellent quality. Item is just as described

Used on 1951 Chevy 3/4 ton truck with 216 motor

Interference Issues

Yes, these headers fit to a 216, 235, 261 Chevy but as far as vehicle application that is a different story. I see several good reviews and several poor reviews. I??_m guessing the good review come from truck owners because there are several interference issues with cars. The rear header interfered with the parking brake and the throttle linkage on my 52 Chevy Styleline. To make them work the throttle linkage wound need to be re-routed or switched to a swing pedal with a throttle cable. The bung for the intake heat tube pointed right at the parking brake rod and would need to be relocated on the header. I didn't want to mess around with any of the issue and decided to ship them back. I knew Fenton??_s wouldn't work because they interfere with my add-on Innerline Oil Filter. I went and bought a 1.25 in. 90 degree pluming fitting and made my own poor man??_s split manifold for less than $10. I guess it all worked out in the end, now I have $100+ to spend elsewhere on my car. Manufacturing quality is fair. I would not recommend them for a car.

What vehicle did they design these for??

Let me start by saying I am a mechanical engineer by day, and a weekend hotrodder. I have built quite a few cars from the ground up, including complete chassis and suspension fabrication. I'm not scared to modify something to make it work. That being said, these are the worst fitting headers I have ever bought for any application. They are installed on a 235 in a '52 Styleline deluxe. If you plan on using these headers in a similar chassis, be prepared to fabricate new throttle linkage, notch your motor mount, and cut off the emergency brake mount to make these work. The stock hardware will work for bolting them to the head, but you have to modify the hold down clamps to get them to sit flush. Actually installing the headers takes less than an hour, but making all of the car's parts fit around them will take you quite a bit of tinkering. If you do not have access to a welder, line up a friend who does before you take your car apart. The sound of a split six, however, is absolutely amazing. The tubular headers have more of a metallic "ring" to them than the cast fentons, which I love. I am running them into 2" straight pipes with no mufflers and it's nothing short of musical. I haven't turned the stereo on since I installed the headers. Freeing up the exhaust on these sixes really helps them power-wise. Especially with multiple carbs and a Fenton or Offy intake. My car is no drag racer, but it's significantly more fun to drive now. All in all, I would recommend the repop fentons over these. Unless, of course, you want that metallic ring like I did, then these can't be beat.

I would buy cast iron headers next time.

I think I would have been better off sPending the extra $100 to get the Fentens or another cast header. They are more user friendly.These are nice looking headers and seem to be made well, but with no hints for bolting them on each user is left to figure some attachment method on thier own based on thier skills and eqipment available. One of your other customers how wrote a response stated he drilled and tapped the heads to recieve bolts. Tapping cast iron with only 1/4 inch to the side and to the matting surface of the valve cover did not appeal to me. I welded on 1/8 inch metal to provide a boss for the original bolt nd retainer. As I stated I would have saved myself 3hrs of time by buying the Fentens that already have these bosses cast in. Thanks.

The clearance dings were a surprize?

Quality is good. The dings were obviously planned and not damage from shipping. I plan to wrap them so the ding removal won't be a problem.

well done

they look very good all the order was complete,very smooth transaction

awesome

the install was strait forward even with th lack of instructions. i would recomend the use of intake centering rings or leaks can happen. you need to remove the front and rear manifold alignment studs and replace with 9/16X24 1 inch bolts inorder to install properly. the bolts that hold you stock intake to you exhaust manifold work perfectly. took about an hour to install