Hooker BHS5192 Manifold, Exhaust, Lt Rear Dump, Raw

• 2.5-inch outlet diameter offers improved flow for maximum performance from a cast iron exhaust manifold
• Tight tuck design that provides an exit between our standard swap manifolds and center dump manifolds
• Intended for GM Gen V LT engine swap applications where durability, quiet operation, and leak-free sealing is desired
• Available in Natural as-cast finish for a factory appearance, silver ceramic, or black ceramic
• Cast from Hi-Silicon-Moly Ductile Iron to provide durability and corrosion resistance
• Perfect complement to Hooker engine swap mount plates and Holley engine swap oil pans
• Hardware included: Nickel plated steel mating flanges, MLS mating flange gaskets, and mating flange hardware
• Similar to Small Block Chevy driver side manifold (HKR8525) - same exit centerline but raised up 1.36-inches

Breaking in an engine with ceramic-coated versions of these manifolds will most likely result in damage to the coating and VOID all warranties providing coverage to it. HOOKERâ„¢ recommends using bare cast-iron manifolds or an old set of headers to break-in engines to avoid coating damage. Ceramic-coated manifolds require several heat cycles to fully cure before they will withstand extreme heat, so care should be taken to provide a series of 4 to 5 intermittent heat cycles to "set" the coating prior to putting the vehicle into service. An incremental increase in run duration and throttle angle should be added to each successive cycle; initial and final run durations between approximately 1 and 7 minutes will be sufficient to set the coating.Certain engines with the knock sensors on the sides of the block: passenger side will need to be clocked for extra clearance. Unplug the sensor by pulling the gray clip back and pressing in the center. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the knock sensor and turn as shown in instructions. Once complete, be sure that the wire is away from the manifold. Heat sleeve or tape is recommended at a minimum or use Hooker BHS519 heat shield for best results.

Breaking in an engine with ceramic-coated versions of these manifolds will most likely result in damage to the coating and VOID all warranties providing coverage to it. HOOKERâ„¢ recommends using bare cast-iron manifolds or an old set of headers to break-in engines to avoid coating damage. Ceramic-coated manifolds require several heat cycles to fully cure before they will withstand extreme heat, so care should be taken to provide a series of 4 to 5 intermittent heat cycles to "set" the coating prior to putting the vehicle into service. An incremental increase in run duration and throttle angle should be added to each successive cycle; initial and final run durations between approximately 1 and 7 minutes will be sufficient to set the coating.Certain engines with the knock sensors on the sides of the block: passenger side will need to be clocked for extra clearance. Unplug the sensor by pulling the gray clip back and pressing in the center. Use a 13mm wrench to loosen the knock sensor and turn as shown in instructions. Once complete, be sure that the wire is away from the manifold. Heat sleeve or tape is recommended at a minimum or use Hooker BHS519 heat shield for best results.