Mustang II IFS, Short Control Arms, Air Ride, Stock Spindles, Wilwood Brakes
- Brake kit features GM Metric calipers with rubber hoses, with your choice of 5 x 4-1/2" or 5 x 4-3/4" bolt pattern
- Comes with 5/8" narrower tubular upper and lower strutless control arms
- Includes genuine Air Ride Suspension shocks
- Caliper inlet fitting is a 1/8-27 NPT and comes with enough steel braided line to allow for full suspension travel and turning radius, lock to loc
- Specially deigned to fit the Mustang II platform
Hub-to-hub kit includes 5/8" narrower upper and offset strutless lower control arms, new standard spindles, rubber brake lines, air ride , new manual or rebuilt power rack & pinion with bushings and new tie rods. The 10-3/4" Wilwood brake kit features GM Metric calipers with rubber hoses, with your choice of 5 x 4-1/2" or 5 x 4-3/4" bolt pattern.
- Works with all Speedway and Heidts crossmembers
- Kit Includes:
- 5/8" narrower Tubular Upper and Lower Strutless Control Arms
- New Standard Spindles
- Air Ride Suspension shocks
- Rack and Pinion with bushings and tie rods
- 10-3/4" Wilwood brake kit with GM calipers
- Add proper crossmember to complete kit - Must include Mustang II crossmember for complete installation (sold separately)
Note: OEM rubber brake hoses generally cannot be adapted to Wilwood calipers. The caliper inlet fitting is a 1/8-27 NPT. The preferred method is to use steel adapter fittings at the caliper, either straight, 45 or 90 degree and enough steel braided line to allow for full suspension travel and turning radius, lock to lock.
Note: If using these kits with Speedway or Heidts crossmembers for 1948-1956 Ford Pickups, 1955-1959 Chevy Pickups, or universal crossmembers for 27-1/2" - 33-1/2" frame widths, you will be required to purchase 2" Inner Tie Rod Extensions (91034345) or (91034346).
NotesNote: When using 5/8" narrower control arms, 5/8" must be removed from each inner tie rod end.
Why go with tubular control arms?
The most obvious reason is the looks. Tubular control arms and strut rods give your hot rod a much cleaner and hi-tech appearance than the stock type do. Also, when using the strutless style, you gain more clearance because you no longer have the strut rod or its mount in the way of headers, etc. Another bonus is that the tubular control arms are available in 5/8" narrower than stock, which helps tuck the wheels up under the fenders without having to buy expensive special offset wheel. When using 5/8" narrower control arms, 5/8" must be removed from each inner tie rod end.
Note: If using steel wheels with this kit, you will also need to purchase (2) steel shims part 835-3007500. These shims will prevent steel wheelsfrom galling the aluminum hub.
Note: Applications where the vehicle has fenders that mount directly on top of the frame, the fenders will require extensive modification to allow clearance for the upper cross member section.
Note: These kits require the purchase of a Mustang II crossmember (sold separately). Many of our Speedway and Heidts brand crossmembers will work with Manual Rack and Pinion Steering ONLY. When purchasing our crossmembers, be sure to look for their correspondence with power racks if selecting a power rack with our Mustang II IFS kits. With all Mustang II aftermarket crossmembers, spacers and longer bolts must be used with the later (Fox-body) power rack (spacers included).
Finding the right control arms means finding the correct track width: Our Mustang II kits feature 11” rotors. Track width, which is hub face to hub face where the wheels bolt on, varies between Ford bolt pattern at 57.5” to Chevy bolt pattern at 58.5”. Wheel and tire combination and customer preference determine whether to use the standard control arms or the 5/8” narrower. The narrower control arms reduce the track with by a total of 1.25”. See the link below for various track widths with different options.
- Minimum Wheel Diameter (in): 15"
- Wheel Stud Diameter: 1/2"-20
- Caliper inlet fitting: 1/8"-27 NPT
- Tubular Upper Control Arms
- Tubular No-Strut Lower Control Arm
- New Stock or 2" Dropped Spindles
- New Air Springs
- New Shocks
- New Manual or Power Rack & Pinion
- New Tie Rod Ends
- New 11" Brake Kit
- 5x4-1/2" or 5x4-3/4" Bolt Circle
WARNING: DRIVING A LOWERED VEHICLE COULD BE DANGEROUS AND COULD CAUSE DAMAGE TO YOUR SUSPENSION
The original intent of the air spring was to provide a very smooth ride. It was not designed to provide an adjustable ride height. You can not drive the vehicle at any ride height you select.
All suspension systems are designed to operate at a specific midpoint position, with provisions for suspension travel. The Mustang II suspension is no exception. It has a specific mid-point position which is when the lower control arms are level. The suspension must be in this position to provide full suspension travel and correct geometry action.
In this type of suspension the shock is normally the bottom out device. When the vehicle is lowered the shocks compression and extension limits change and the shocks will bottom out or the ball joints could pinch when it is lowered. The air ride suspension is only designed to lower your vehicle while it is parked. If you attempt to drive a vehicle in the lowered position it could be dangerous and will cause damage to your vehicle. This could result in broken control arms, shocks and ball joints.
Spindle Instructions (PDF)
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What's In The Kit
Q & A
Pat shows how his air ride is setup in his 1964 Impala.
AccuAir and Speedway Motors team up to bring you a video series explaining the basics of air suspension. Watch these videos to get a better understanding of air suspension.
Pat gives a brief overview of air ride and parts we have to offer for air ride.
Pat talks about air solenoids for your air ride setup.
It may feel like a daunting task attempting to determine the best leaf spring for your traditional hot rod straight axle build, but our buyer's guide will surely help.
In this Tech Tip, John offers some options for a customer looking to bring the ride height of his Olds Starfire up with some air suspension.
When it comes to a traditional style build on an early hot rod it just has to be rolling on a solid front axle of some sort. In this buyer's guide we take you through I-beam and round tube solid axles, spindle choices, radius rod needs, and more.