G-Comp Grand National Full Floating Rear Hub Kit, 5 on 4.75 Inch

• Hub comes in 5x4.75 wheel bolt pattern with 1/2-20 studs for autocross use
• Lightweight steel hub uses 2.5-inch ID tapered bearings for increased loads
• 24-spline drive flange plate with aluminum axle cap allows easy axle removal
• Fits popular full floater rear axle setups with 2.5-inch housing ends
• Tabbed lock washer design holds consistent bearing preload
• Compatible with 8x7 disc brake rotor bolt pattern
• Exact same hub used in G-Comp Suspension full floater rear axle packages
• Can be used as a service part or to build your custom full floating axle
• Allows rotor to be installed offset inboard or outboard of the mounting flange
• Hub and drive flange plate are black oxide coated to resist corrosion
• Bearing spacer included and preset for proper bearing preload
• Bearings, seals, 1/2-20 60-degree taper seat lug nuts, and hardware included
• Does NOT include hub nut, reuse yours or order new left or right thread nut as needed

Upgrade To a Full Floater Rear End for Increased Strength and Safety

The full floating rear axle has been around for decades. Primarily designed for heavy duty truck use, it was found to be a great solution for circle track racing and has been a race-spec axle housing used in all levels of circle track racing ever since. Today you’ll find high horsepower street cars that see extreme cornering g-forces (auto crossing, road racing, etc.) using full floater rear end setups as well. So why the change to a full floating axle from the more conventional semi-floating axle found under just about every rear drive production car made in the last century? It’s easy really when you compare the differences between full floating vs semi floating axle assemblies.

In a semi-floating axle, such as the popular GM 10 and 12 bolt rears, or Ford’s 7.5- and 8.8-inch rear ends, the axle assembly is retained by a C-clip at the differential end and rides on a single bearing seated in the end of the axle tube. The full weight of the vehicle rides on this single small bearing while the differential end of the axle shaft floats in the differential or spool, hence the “semi” floating term. This design puts a lot of stress on the axle bearings and seals, and it is not uncommon to bend axle flanges in hard cornering or chew up a bearing (which ruins the axle). Additionally, if the C-clip should fail from side loading, or the axle break from excessive torque, the broken axle with wheel and tire assembly can exit the axle housing causing extensive damage and loss of control of the vehicle. While a bolt-in axle like the popular Ford 9-inch is an improvement, axle flange stress can still lead to bending or breaking right at the bearing in hard cornering.

Meanwhile, the full floating axle uses a hub that rides on a pair of large bearings on the end of the axle tube itself (similar to your front disc brake rotor and spindle). This allows the full weight of the vehicle, as well as all acceleration, braking, and cornering forces to move through the axle housing itself. Due to the dual bearing hub on the end of the axle housing the axle itself “floats between the differential or spool and a splined drive plate that mounts between the hub and the wheel (engaged via the wheel studs), thus the “full floater rear end.” If an axle should break in a full floating rear axle there is zero chance of losing a wheel and tire assembly. Furthermore, due to the fixed hub location disc brake pad knock back (a common issue on semi-floating axles where hard cornering pushes the caliper pistons into the caliper) is eliminated. This provides constant and firm brake pedal application no matter the cornering forces. Hit our Toolbox article on full floater rear axles for more details.

Strength and Precision That Can Handle the Track or The Street

Our G-Comp full floating rear axle hubs are the perfect upgrade to your old, heavy hubs you currently use. Designed with an integral disc brake rotor flange that accepts standard 8x7 bolt pattern rotors, these Grand National style hubs include tapered roller bearings with bearing spacer installed, a new tabbed lock washer to retain the hub nut, and inner axle seal with spiral lock ring retainer to prevent seal movement. We also include a new 24 spline drive flange plate with anodized aluminum axle cover to allow quick and easy axle removal for differential gear swaps. New hub nuts are not included, so if yours have seen better days, or you’re building your full floater rear end piece by piece, be sure to pick up the hub nut required. We offer both left hand thread and right hand thread versions.

These hubs come in a more street wheel friendly 5x4.75 bolt circle pattern. Continuing the street theme is our use of standard 1/2-20 wheel studs with 60-degree taper seat open end lug nuts for street and autocross use. If your wheels of choice use standard 1/2-20 wheel studs and 60-degree taper lug nuts then this is the full floating axle hub for you. Traditional Grand National hubs use larger 5/8-11 wheel studs with 45-degree taper lug nuts, which makes using traditional full floating axles with Grand National hubs tough due to the limited wheel availability (mostly steel circle track wheels). Using this G-Comp hub opens up your wheel choices dramatically when opting to go with a full floater rear end on the street. You can learn more about 45 vs 60 degree taper lug nut applications in our lug nut guide in The Toolbox.

Kit Includes:

• Lightweight Grand National hub with 5x4.75 wheel bolt pattern
• 1/2-20 wheel studs pre-installed
• 24 spline drive plate with removable axle cap
• 2.5-inch Grand National bearings
• 1/2-20 60-degree tapered seat open end lug nuts
• All seals and hardware required for assembly of hub

Needed to Complete:

• Left hand thread hub nut
• Right hand thread hub nut