AFCO 6640109 12.19 Inch Pillar Vane Slotted Rotor, .810 Inch, LH Side
Dirt Late Model, Modified, Pavement Late Model, Left Position, Round Rotor Shape, Cast Iron
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- Designed using premium grade alloys for superb thermal shock stability
- Machined and double disc ground to assure precise flatness
- Precise pillar placement for high volume cooling
- Premium center - split castings reduce stress risers
- Rotationally machined balanced - CNC
- More brake pad surface support (pillars) to prevent rotor cupping
- Strength of an 80 vane rotor with the weight savings of a 32 vane rotor
- Machine balanced to reduce vibration
- Increased cooling capacity - allows for trail braking lap after lap
- Gas slots wipe brake pad and eliminate brake system fade
- .810" thick
- 7" bolt circle
- 12.19" diameter
- Weighs 8.3 lbs
- For left hand side of chassis
Proper Break-In Procedure for Steel or Cast Iron Rotors
New steel/iron rotors should be bedded in before being used in racing conditions. Proper bedding will prepare the rotor surface, prolong the rotor's life, and make it more resistant to thermal checking or cracking under severe braking conditions. The following procedures should be performed when bedding in both steel and cast iron rotors. It is best to bed in a new rotor using a used set of pads, preferably ones which will not create heat rapidly. Generating heat too rapidly will thermal shock the rotors. Likewise, when bedding in a new set of brake pads it is best to perform the process on a used rotor. This new/used bedding process permits controlled bedding of each individual component.
Make sure rotor surfaces are free from oils, grease, and brake fluid. Run vehicle up to a moderate speed and make several medium deceleration stops to heat up the rotor slowly. This will help reduce the chance of thermal shock caused by uneven heating of the rotor. Pull into the pits and allow the rotor to cool to ambient air temperature. Care should be taken not to ride the brakes into the pits as this may hot spot the rotor causing premature wear to the surface or structural damage.
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Q & A
We get a lot of questions about brake kits so Tim gives a brief overview of disc brake setups.
If you're changing your brake pads before you hit your first race, it's important to burnish or bed-in your new pads. Check out our quick tech-tip on bedding brakes and how to minimize pad wear and get the best performance out of your brakes.
Tim talks about the options we have for early Ford drum brakes.
Steve replaces the factory GM 8.5" 10-bolt rear end on his '76 Chevrolet Laguna S3 with a GM 10 & 12 bolt bolt-on rear disc brake kit.
We offer a guide to follow when selecting a new set of brake pads for your race car. It's important to know the friction quality and pad size before selecting a new set of racing pads.
Heath finally gets the opportunity to work on rear disc brakes. He explains some things that went great during this project, and not so great. Find out what the advantages and disadvantages are of running disc brakes.
Getting started on the brakes and more!