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This harness was designed to offer you all the highest quality components in a package designed for cars with minimum accessories. Each wire is color coded and labeled every few inches.Our prewired 12 circuit kit will fit all your basic needs and makes wiring a painless process. It is designed especially for the street rod without accessories. It also includes horn relay and connector, turn and hazard signals, dimmer switch connector, circuit breaker for headlights, two flashers, one alternator plug, two ignition switch connectors, plus more.
Easy to install and complete. Works as good as the higher cost kits.
This is a great wiring harness for a basic hot rod without a lot of accessories. Each wire is labeled and the correct length. Wiring waas the scariest part of our hot rod build and this harness made it "no big deal".
this is a easy-peasy install, I hate doing electrical work, but this product made it so easy
This is the second one from Speedway. One for my '41 Dodge WC military, and another one in my '79 Jeep CJ7. Did a Painless in my buddies jeep but there were too many little factory mistakes to call it "Painless" it was more "Painful". I had my econ harness run in looms and mostly connected in an afternoon. If you don't take into account the time taken looming and soldering, this kit took less time than the painless which had a code system and very few individual wires labeled so if there was a problem, you had to sort it out with a test light and multimeter...who knew they would "accidentally" offset the ignition wire in the bulkhead so they missed each other, or when you pushed the windshield washer button the horn would honk? Next time I buy a harness, it will be another Speedway harness for 1/4th the price of the Painless and a whole lot less hassle!!
good product, easy install.
Get your questions answered by the community. Ask or answer questions below.
I am building a 1930 model A coupe with a flathead V8. This car has 12V. electrical, electric cooling fan, electric VDO gauges (fuel level, speedometer, engine temp, oil pressure, amp.) along with normal lights and electric wiper. Would your economy 12 circuit harness be a good selection for me? Thanks, Tom
Asked on 1/3/2011 8:25:11 AM by Tom from San Diego, CA.
This wire harness kit (910-64017) should work well for the described Model A hotrod. It has plenty of capacity to handle everything described in your note.
Answered on 1/5/2011 1:39:18 AM by Clark from Speedway Motors
Absoultely! Just be careful if you install any old accessories such as a horn from that same time period where as they are on a 6 volt system. Then you would use a resistor if you wanted to incorporate it into your 12 volt system.
Answered on 5/30/2011 2:26:34 PM by Vegas from Bay Area
i am building a 1951 chevy 2 door coupe body off restoration will this wiring harness work for this car
Asked on 1/7/2011 4:55:48 AM by tom from minden nv
If the Chevy is being built as a 12 volt car, this harness should be a fine choice. This harness provides plenty of connections for a basic car, and it has plugs to make an easy connection to an aftermarket or GM column. This wiring kit is in stock today, priced at $129.99.
Answered on 1/11/2011 4:30:36 AM by Clark from Speedway Motors
If the Chevy is being built as a 12 volt car, this harness should be a fine choice. This harness provides plenty of connections for a basic car, and it has plugs to make an easy connection to an aftermarket or GM column.
Answered on 1/19/2011 1:16:28 AM by Jeremy O from Speedway Motors
This harness worked well on my 48 Chevy Coupe Streetrod. I don't know if its what I would use on a stock restoration. Hope this helps you.
Answered on 1/25/2011 1:44:00 PM by Pete from Milford, CT
I am not using a GM column, how do I connect the hazard flasher? Switched power, switched ground? Does the switch need to disable the brake lights and turn signals? Thank you.
Asked on 3/31/2011 3:24:34 AM by E from CO
You inquired about our wire harness number 91064017 and use without a GM column. If you have a plain column without the turn signal switch or hazard switch you will still need some way to control the turn signals and the hazards. You may want to pull up our part number 91062860 Turn signal switch and open the PDF instruction file for a better understanding of how the circuits function. The wire harness itself also has some detailed instructions in a PDF instruction file that can be opened on our website. Another option would be an electronic turn signal/hazard switch number 91064050 or 91064070 depending on whether you are using a separate single filament bulb for the turn signals or a dual filament bulb. These also have a PDF instruction to help clarify how they work. Other than that it would take some additional wiring and homework. The 4 ways usually work with the car not running and even with the key out of the ignition. To accomplish this the hazard flasher will need constant power. Then through a switch and to all four corners of the vehicle. It would work on the same wires that feed the turn signals in front and back. Your brake light switch interrupts the power going to the rear through the turn signal switch while not interfering with the front lights when the turn signals are activated. Power through the flasher extends through the switch and out to the bulbs which are grounded on the opposite portion of the bulb.
Answered on 4/5/2011 5:45:58 AM by John W from Speedway Motors
Should there be a mounting bracket for the fuse box? or do you have make one your self?
Asked on 5/11/2011 1:20:14 PM by E from CO
The mini-fuse harness has a back cover that can be removed by depressing four latch fingers on the back of the block. You could mount this plate first, and then snap the box back onto the back, or fabricate a plate to attach the back to and then snap the fuse block into place.
Answered on 5/20/2011 4:15:32 AM by Brian from Speedway Motors
I am ready to install one of these harnesses in my '32 but I have a question. How do you reccomend mounting the fuse block? I have looked for some sort of mounting tabs but am at a loss. Can you offer some suggestions? Thanks.
Asked on 5/15/2011 2:43:40 AM by over the hill from Harrisonburg, VA
The back of the fuse block unsnaps from the fuse block harness assembly by releasing the four corner latch mechanisms. The back of the unit is a factory GM application and does not include the GM firewall unit for mounting. However, by releasing the back unit from the fuse block, the installer can mount the back unit and then resnap the fuse block assembly back into the base unit.
Answered on 5/21/2011 7:36:46 AM by John from Speedway Motors
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