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Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinders, 1 Inch Bore

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Specs
Material Type:
Aluminum
Sold in Quantity:
Each
Feed:
Dual
Finish:
-
Thread Pitch:
3/8"-24
Outlet Fitting:
1/2"-20
MFG. Part #:
260-8555P
Centerline of Holes:
3.22
Overall Height:
4.63
Overall Width:
3.141
Mounted Length:
8.15
Bore Size:
1.00
Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinders, 1 Inch Bore
Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinders, 1 Inch Bore
VIDEO
Wilwood Tandem Master Cylinders, 1 Inch Bore

Click image to enlarge

Watch the video below to learn how to install and bleed the Wilwood Master Cylinder.

Details

Reviews (0)

Q & A (8)

What's in the Box

Info

Wilwood’s tandem chamber master cylinders represent the latest refinements in brake pressure actuation and fluid control. The exclusive Wilwood features incorporated in this innovative and unique new design make it the perfect choice for a wide range of custom manual or power brake applications.

Each master cylinder is configured with full separation between the front and rear reservoir chambers and fluid outlets. There is a pressure access on both sides of the piston bore for right or left hand plumbing based on mount location. A total piston stroke of 1.10” is distributed at a 2:1 volume ratio between the primary and secondary chambers.

  • High-pressure die casting of a premium alloy
  • High-capacity body
  • Lightweight, looks great, and has the durability for competition
  • Black anodized billet lid
  • Pressure balanced bellows gasket provides sealing against moisture invasion or fluid leakage
  • Mounting flange is slotted to accommodate installation on both centers between 3.22” and 3.40”
  • Simple bolt-on for many OE mounts including the popular Chrysler, Corvette, GM, and Ford Mustang

Tandem Master Cylinder Installation Instructions (PDF)

Learn more about selecting the proper master cylinder for your vehicle by reading our tech article. Brake System Selection

Item Details

1" bore
3.12" center of cylinder bore to top of unit

Notes

  1. Brake System Builder's Tip (Link)
  2. Body features two through hole mounts on 6.40” centers for side mounting to frame members or other secure elements of the chassis.
  3. Fittings included with master cylinder: (one) 1/2-20 x 9/16-18 IF tube adapter, (one) 1/2-20 x 1/2-20 IF tube adapter and (two) 1/2-20 x 3/8-24 IF tube adapters.
  4. Fabrication or modification of the pedal pushrod may be required on the 1" or 1-1/8" bore size to adapt the master cylinder to some applications. 

Specs


Customer Reviews

This product has no reviews.

Product Q&A

8 questions : 9 answers

1 answers

Will this master cyl work on a 57 chevy? I want to buy your tri-five chevy front disc brake kit with 11" rotors & 69-77 calipers. Also would you recommend a stock prop valve of a adjustable unit. I'm running non-power brakes & stock drums out back. Its a 4-wheel drum #non-power# car. Thank you. Matthew

Matt70
Detroit, MI, USA
February 20, 2013

Will this master cyl work on a 57 chevy? I want to buy your tri-five chevy front disc brake kit with 11" rotors & 69-77 calipers. Also would you recommend a stock prop valve of a adjustable unit. I'm running non-power brakes & stock drums out back. Its a 4-wheel drum #non-power# car. Thank you. Matthew

Answers

February 20, 2013
Jason
Master cylinder number 8352608555 when used with a brake conversion to disc brakes on the front normally requires an adjustable proportioning valve such as Speedway number 91031353 or a mated Wilwood under part number 8352608419. These are simply plumbed into the line going to the rear brakes and for bleeding purposes the knob is screwed in all the way for free flow and then trial and error adjusted out till the installer obtains even braking front to rear or as desired. Disc brakes require normally 1200 to 1300 psi as compared to drums needing only 600-800 psi.
1 answers

I need to rebuild mine, do you carry the kit for this model?

Novaguy
January 17, 2013

I need to rebuild mine, do you carry the kit for this model?

Answers

January 18, 2013
Jason
Wilwood does not offer a rebuild kit for this master cylinder. Wilwood does offer a factory rebuild for this, parts and labor is a $50.00 charge. When these masters were originally released Wilwood did offer the rebuild kits for them but as time went on the majority of them were damaged which was attributed to the tools and techniques use to disassemble and re-assemble, gets a bit tricky so Wilwood opted to offer this service. Simply contact Wilwood for an RMA and send it direct to them. The turnaround is generally two working days.
1 answers

"depth correction plug" mentioned in video for use with a booster.... do they come in different length's is another name for them I cant find any I am installing a master cylinder and booster in a 1953 Studebaker, I have found that the booster rod is not coming in contact with the master cylinder and is about 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" short... I saw the depth correction plug mentioned in your video and was wondering if these are available in different width's and length's... I have not been able to find anything like this anywhere, and was wondering if possibly under a different name? Or am I doomed to making one myself? Thanks for your input

Motorhead
Daytona Beach, FL, USA
December 10, 2012

"depth correction plug" mentioned in video for use with a booster.... do they come in different length's is another name for them I cant find any I am installing a master cylinder and booster in a 1953 Studebaker, I have found that the booster rod is not coming in contact with the master cylinder and is about 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" short... I saw the depth correction plug mentioned in your video and was wondering if these are available in different width's and length's... I have not been able to find anything like this anywhere, and was wondering if possibly under a different name? Or am I doomed to making one myself? Thanks for your input

Answers

December 11, 2012
Jason
The depth correction plug is commonly referred to as a piston “slug” and comes with our master cylinders that are used for both boosted and non boosted applications. They are not offered in different lengths unless by other manufacturers. On our kits the booster push rod or “spud” is adjustable to obtain the proper clearance. Space between the booster push rod and the piston is mandatory in order for the piston to come all the way back and fully release the brakes and also to allow the piston to get a full charge of fluid when applying the brakes. If you have a speedway master cylinder that is used for both manual and power brakes and did not receive the slug in the box let our customer service staff help in receiving one. Some master cylinders are NOT adaptable to both manual and power brakes and this would need to be verified.
2 answers

will this work for a dual piston caliber front disk & rear drums?

November 28, 2011

will this work for a dual piston caliber front disk & rear drums?

Answers

July 02, 2015
Eric
Expert
With front disc and rear drum the 1" bore would be recommended and it should handle the volume of the dual piston calipers. With proper regulation of front to rear pressure you should achieve sufficient braking without a booster as long as you have sufficient pedal ratio.
November 30, 2011
John
Part # 8352608555 With front disc and rear drum the 1” bore would be recommended and it should handle the volume of the dual piston calipers. With proper regulation of front to rear pressure you should achieve sufficient braking without a booster as long as you have sufficient pedal ratio.
1 answers

I,m building a Model A pickup, GM metric disc on front & rear, 5 to 1 pedal ratio, 7" single diaphram booster. I have a Wilwood master cylinder with a 1&1/8" bore that I would like to use. Will I have enough pressure or do I need a smaller bore? Joe

Jalopiejoe
Cave Creek, AZ.
January 07, 2011

I,m building a Model A pickup, GM metric disc on front & rear, 5 to 1 pedal ratio, 7" single diaphram booster. I have a Wilwood master cylinder with a 1&1/8" bore that I would like to use. Will I have enough pressure or do I need a smaller bore? Joe

Answers

January 13, 2011
Waymon
We suggest that you purchase a Willwood Tandem master cylinder, part number: 8352608555. This master cylinder has a bore size of 1 inch and will supply you with the pressure that you need.
1 answers

1/2-20 to -3AN adapter Do you offer a 1/2-20 to -3AN adapter for the Wilwood master cylinders? I hate stacking adapters if I don't have to.

phendrickson58
KS
April 08, 2015

1/2-20 to -3AN adapter Do you offer a 1/2-20 to -3AN adapter for the Wilwood master cylinders? I hate stacking adapters if I don't have to.

Answers

April 09, 2015
EricM
Yes we offer that adapter as part number 910318-1/2
1 answers

Is this the one for a 1967 Pontiac GTO???

Budman
WV
September 04, 2015

Is this the one for a 1967 Pontiac GTO???

Answers

September 04, 2015
Andy
Expert
The best way to determine if this Master Cylinder will work on your GTO is to measure the dimensions and compare them to these dimensions. Going by the dimensions that GM usually had for the Master cylinders during that time period this should work fine, however it's always best to measure and be sure. Outlet Fittings: 1/2"-20 Center-line of Holes: 3.22- 3.31 Overall Height: 4.63 Overall Width: 3.141 Mounted Length: 8.15 Bore Size: 1.00
1 answers

I've built a '32 Ford using a brake/clutch pedal combination supplied by the chassis builder (Brookville Roadster). I mounted a 1" bore manual MC under the floor and installed disc brakes front and rear. My problem is that the pedal effort is extreme. Turns out that the brake pedal is only 4:1 ratio. I now realize that my brake system is probably the worst possible combination in terms of pedal effort. It's OK for moderate braking, but I'm not sure I can press the pedal hard enough to make a panic stop. (I estimate it'd take 200 lbs of pedal force.) There's absolutely no room for a power brake MC. I'm considering replacing the MC with a 7/8" bore. That'd reduce the pedal effort by about 25% but increase the pedal travel by that much. I seem to have plenty of pedal travel available, so I don't think that'd be a problem. (I've got 5" to the floor, but I'm only using about 1" - it's a nice, firm pedal.) Can you see any problems with making this switch?

bigmurf
Detroit area
April 07, 2016

I've built a '32 Ford using a brake/clutch pedal combination supplied by the chassis builder (Brookville Roadster). I mounted a 1" bore manual MC under the floor and installed disc brakes front and rear. My problem is that the pedal effort is extreme. Turns out that the brake pedal is only 4:1 ratio. I now realize that my brake system is probably the worst possible combination in terms of pedal effort. It's OK for moderate braking, but I'm not sure I can press the pedal hard enough to make a panic stop. (I estimate it'd take 200 lbs of pedal force.) There's absolutely no room for a power brake MC. I'm considering replacing the MC with a 7/8" bore. That'd reduce the pedal effort by about 25% but increase the pedal travel by that much. I seem to have plenty of pedal travel available, so I don't think that'd be a problem. (I've got 5" to the floor, but I'm only using about 1" - it's a nice, firm pedal.) Can you see any problems with making this switch?

Answers

April 07, 2016
Eric
Expert
You just need to redesign your brake pedal and get to a 6:1 ratio as a bare minimum. With manual brakes 7:1 is preferred. The smallest bore size master cylinder that you can find would help you out with your low ratio but it still will not work right. I know it isn't fun to have to redo things but unfortunately that is the only way you are going to be able to do it right.
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